A tasty treat for my horse

Horse 17 - A tasty treat for my horse

Most owners like to offer their horse a tasty treat and horses are more than happy to nibble on yummy snacks. However, it is wise to be careful with what you offer, how you offer and when you offer in order to avoid digestive problems and creating bad habits.

The best treats for a healthy horse are fruits, some vegetables and nowadays there is also a wide variety of commercial horse treats available (hay cubes, flavoured pellets, etc.). Our list of safe and healthy treats for horses includes apples, carrots, bananas, grapes, strawberries, oranges, cantaloupe or other melons, raisins and sunflower seeds. You can make healthy cookies for your horse and pony using oatmeal and shredded carrot for example. You can also offer the traditional sugar cubes and mints, just make sure these are offered in small amounts.

You should avoid feeding them with onions, potatoes, tomatoes, cabbage, broccoli, cauliflower, Brussels sprouts, kale and any other foods that tends to produce intestinal gas, grass clippings and dough products as these can cause a blockage in their digestive tract.

Many horses will quickly gulp large pieces of treat without properly chewing it first. Please remember to cut treats into smaller pieces before feeding them to your horse to minimise the risk of choking and avoid feeding them unpitted fruits.

Treats should be offered in small amounts and as a general rule, one or two pieces of treat is enough. This is very important to keep in mind if you are tempted to overindulge your horse with tasty treats. Horses have delicate digestive systems that depend on a balance of bacteria and other microbes in order to function properly. Feeding them with foods that are not part of their normal diet can upset this balance and lead to serious health problems such as colic. Your horse will always want another treat and it is up to you to say no for your horse’s sake.

The safest way to feed a treat to your horse is to use a bucket. If you want to feed it by hand please make sure to place the treat in the middle of your flat hand and push it slightly toward the horse’s mouth, rather than withdrawing your hand as he reaches towards it. This can inadvertently cause the horse to lunge for the treat and develop a bad habit over time.

Avoid giving your horse treats on a regular basis. Horses that expect a treat at a certain time and don’t get it may start exhibiting less desirable behaviours.

Most treats if feed with moderation will not negatively affect your horse. When we are discussing treats, moderation is definitely the key.

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Recent study shows that dogs can be pessimistic or optimistic

Dogs 19 - Recent study shows that dogs can be pessimistic or optimistic

Have you ever noticed if your dog has an optimistic or a pessimistic character?

In general, dogs seem cheerful and happy with their tail wags and enthusiasm for outdoor walks. For this reason most owners would probably think that their four-legged friend has an optimistic outlook on life. A recent study has showed that some dogs are distinctly more pessimistic than others!

In this study, the dogs were trained in a discrimination task involving two different sounds and two different rewards. They learned that if they touched a target after hearing a certain tone, they would get a lactose-free milk reward and if they touched the target after hearing another tone, they would get water instead of milk. This caused them to abstain from touching the target after hearing the tone associated with water because they really preferred to get milk as a reward. Then the dogs were presented with ‘ambiguous’ tones.

This test showed how optimistic they are by which tones they responded to. Dogs were considered optimistic if they responded to ambiguous tones expecting to receive milk as a reward (a positive outcome). A very optimistic dog would even respond to tones that sounded more like those played before water is offered.

Dogs were considered pessimistic if they showed more signs of stress when they felt they had failed the task. These dogs would whine, pace and avoid repeating the task while the optimistic dogs would not be bothered by their lack of success and would continue trying.

Optimistic dogs expect good things to happen and therefore, will happily take more risks. They are persistent and they’re not so affected by less positive outcomes. If things don’t go their way they will move past that and try again. On the other hand, pessimistic dogs will show more signs of stress if something doesn’t go their way, they will not risk as much and will give up more quickly if they have to face less positive outcomes. These dogs might need some encouragement to try new things.

This research has great potential as it measures positive and negative emotional states in dogs objectively and non-invasively, and can completely remodel how animal welfare is assessed. These findings can be used to find how a dog is feeling in any environment, assess how effective enrichment activities might be and pinpoint exactly what a dog finds emotionally distressing.

It can also be very helpful in the context of working and service dogs, helping dog trainers select dogs best suited to working roles. A pessimistic dog, not so keen on taking risks would be better as a guide dog while an optimistic, persistent dog would be more suited to detecting drugs or explosives.

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Equine nutrition and feeding

Horse 16 - Equine nutrition and feeding

An appropriate diet and balanced nutrition is essential for a horse’s healthy development, overall well-being and long term health. In general, the equine diet must include carbohydrates, proteins, minerals, vitamins and water.

A horse’s dietary requirements will depend on its age, size, physiologic state and amount of work performed. Exercising, working or growing horses as well as lactating mares will have higher demands for energy so their feed intake should be adjusted according to their needs. Horses that are overweight, ill or ageing will need specific diet adjustments as well.

The most important part of all feeding programs for horses is good quality grasses, hay or forage. This is an invaluable source of energy, nutrients and fibre that also plays an essential part in teeth wear and good intestinal motility. Hay must be stored properly to avoid mould, dust and rodents. It is also very important to remember that high quality hay encourages a horse’s appetite.

In general, forages are classified as grasses (such as timothy, orchard and brome) and legumes (such as clover or alfalfa). Legumes usually contain more protein, calcium, and energy than grass hay.

In order to achieve a balanced diet, you may need to add concentrates (compound mix) to provide any nutrients that might be missing from the forage. Concentrates include all grains (such as oats, corn or barley) and are high in protein and energy. Grain should be fed in small amounts as it can upset a horse’s digestive system.

A horse’s diet must also include mineral supplementation for adequate bone development and good general health. Horses need adequate amounts of calcium and phosphorus as well as trace minerals such as iodine, copper, iron, manganese and selenium.

Commercial feeds usually have the appropriate amount of minerals and vitamins added to meet a horse’s requirements and horses that consume fresh green pasture will also receive proper amounts of minerals in their diet, except for salt. Horses should have access to free choice salt and clean water to drink at all times.

Horses regularly subjected to moderate to intense work lose electrolytes (sodium, potassium, and chloride) in their sweat. In these particular cases it may necessary to supplement both salt (sodium and chloride) and potassium.

Another relevant topic is the calcium : phosphorus ratio. The body’s response to high levels of phosphorus in the blood stream is to withdraw calcium from the bonesto balance the calcium : phosphorus ratio, so it’s important to keep the phosphorus within normal levels. When buying commercial feeds or premixes it is very important to check if the calcium : phosphorus ratio is between 1:1 and 2:1.

Grazing animals do not have to deal with this issue since phosphorus is fairly low in grasses but grains, on the other hand, are very high in phosphorus.

Horses need to have Vitamin A, D and E in their diet. Good quality hay, fresh green forages and/or premixed rations often contain all the necessary vitamins for a horse.

Body condition scoring is an important tool to monitor your horse’s weight. The ideal body condition score for a horse is between 4 and 5 (on the 9-point scale, with 1 being extremely thin and 9 being extremely fat). As a general rule your horse’s ribs should not be visually distinguished but should be easily felt.

Your horse’s feed intake and amount of exercise should be managed according to your horse’s body condition score and weight. Please remember that overweight horses are more susceptible to conditions such as laminitis, exercise intolerance, inefficient thermoregulation (over-heating) and metabolic disorders.

It is also very important to keep in mind that the equine gastrointestinal tract is not prepared to go without food for any period of time. If it is not possible for a horse to have free access to grass or hay (forage) or to be offered frequent, small meals throughout the day, then it should be fed at regular intervals in order to reduce the amount of time its digestive tract is empty.

If you need to make any changes in horse’s diet please make sure those are introduced gradually over a 7 to 10 day period, so the horse’s digestive system has time to adjust.

We have a new course about equine nutrition and feeding! Have a look at the course’s description here!

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Raising awareness about the dangers of giving pets human medication

Raising-awareness-about-the-dangers-of-giving-pets-human-medication

A recent survey carried out amongst 100 veterinary practitioners by a UK based insurance company, revealed that more than 75% of the participating vets reported to have treated pets that have ingested human medication in the last year. While on most of these cases animals had ingested human medicines by accident, in 28% of them (over a quarter!) owners had deliberately given human drugs to their pets. Most cases (76 per cent) involved dogs, however other animal species were also affected.

According to the survey the most common types of medication ingested were paracetamol, ibuprofen, specificprescribed medications (e.g. for heart conditions or diabetes) contraceptive pills, anti-depressants and sleeping tablets. Pet owners believed that paracetamol would help their pet with conditions like arthritis and limping.

Many owners are not aware that giving human medication to pets is extremely dangerous as it can cause serious illnesses or even death! These incidents happen because owners are trying to help a pet that seems unwell and often believe that if a drug is safe for us, it is also safe for our four-legged friends. This is particularly common with pain relief medications. These caring owners have their hearts in the right place but by trying to help their pet with human drugs they are in fact putting them at risk!

Many human medicines are toxic for pets. Even if the active substance within a human drug is also appropriate for a dog, for example, the adequate dose to be administered is very different.

Our companion animals have different metabolisms from humans which means that human medications can have devastating effects on their organs. A drug that is safe for people like paracetamol or ibuprofen can cause liver and kidney failure to pets. In some cases, the toxic effect of these drugs can be fatal.

Please be very careful and keep all medications out of reach from your pets. Do not assume that a smaller amount of human medicine is safe for your pet and seek veterinary advice before giving it any type of medication.If you suspect that your furry friend has ingested human medication, take it to see a vet immediately.

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Understanding your horse’s nutritional requirements

Horse 15 - Understanding your horse's nutritional requirements
The best way for owners to understand their horse’s dietary needs is for them to know how the equine digestive system works.

In the wild, horses will spend most of their time grazing freely across the countryside and keeping themselves safe from predators. They will eat small amounts of grass throughout the day, choosing immature forages that are easy to digest. This means that the equine digestive tract has evolved to process frequent, small amounts of food naturally rich in nutrients and fibre. Under these conditions, digestive problems are unlikely.

Nowadays, a domesticated horse’s lifestyle has very little to do with its wild counterparts. Horses are confined to pastures or paddocks which limits their movement and their feed choices. Horses will eat what is available or what is provided by their caretakers, who usually don’t have the time to offer several small amounts of food every day. As a result, horses are often fed a large quantity of food, sometimes in a single daily meal. Horses’ nutritional requirements have also changed due to the increase in their workload.

As you can imagine, all these changes to a horse’s natural feeding habits can have serious consequences on its digestive system.

The equine digestive tract is not prepared to be empty for any length of time, as this can cause damage in their stomach lining and lead to gastric ulcers. If it is not possible for a horse to have free access to grass or hay (forage) or to be offered frequent, small meals throughout the day, then it should be fed at regular intervals in order to reduce the amount of time its digestive tract is empty.

Horses are able to get nutritional content from grasses and hay because their digestive system contains microorganisms (in the cecum and colon) that are capable of breaking down structural carbohydrates. These will then be turned into molecules that can be absorbed by the horse and transformed into energy. This particular characteristic of the horse’s digestive system is also the reason why there shouldn’t be any sudden changes in their diet. If any change is needed, the diet should be gradually altered over a 7 to 10 day period, so the resident bacterial population in their hindgut has time to adapt to the change.

A horse’s nutritional requirements will depend on age, size, physiologic state and amount of work performed. In general, a mature, healthy horse will only require good quality hay, mineral supplementation, free-choice salt and water at all times. Exercising, working or growing horses as well as lactating mares will have higher demands for energy so their feed intake should be adjusted according to their needs.

It is also very important to keep an eye on your horse’s body condition and weight so you can adjust its feed intake and amount of exercise accordingly. Please remember that obese horses are more prone to suffer from conditions such as laminitis, exercise intolerance, inefficient thermoregulation (over-heating) and metabolic disorders.

We have a new course about equine nutrition and feeding! Have a look at the course’s description here!

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Bonfire night is almost here! Is your pet afraid of fireworks?

Dogs 16 - Bonfire night is almost here Is your pet afraid of fireworks

Fireworks season is upon us and although this is a time of great fun for us, it can cause a lot of fear and stress to our pets. Some dogs are absolutely terrified of those loud, sudden bangs and it is truly heart-breaking to see them hiding, shaking and cowering underneath the furniture!

The best way to help your pet if he or she suffers with this type of phobia is to start addressing the problem before fireworks season begins. Please remember that most therapies can take some time to become effective.

Sound therapy CDs can work very well for mild phobias in adult dogs. These CDs can help dogs become desensitised and overcome their fear of loud noises.

Pets suffering from a moderate to severe phobia may benefit from medication that can be prescribed by your veterinary surgeon. For long term treatment, it is recommended to resort to a qualified pet behaviourist.

This problem has very serious consequences. It is very common for dogs to run off in fear and end up lost in the middle of all the ruckus. A pet insurance company has revealed in a recent article that 35% more dogs are reported missing on this night than any other of the year. Given these statistics it is very important for owners to take steps to ensure their pets remain safe at their homes.

If your pet is not microchipped yet this is a very good time to consider it. If your pet is already chipped please make sure all your details are all up to date with the microchipping company. Hundreds of lost pet are never returned to their owners due to lack of identification or because the details in the microchip database are incorrect or not up to date.

Since Bonfire Night is upon us, here are a few tips that can help your pet go through this stressful time:

  • Walk you pet during the day and before the event.
  • Provide a den or a covered area with comfortable bedding for your pet to snuggle into, where he or she can hide and feel safe. If possible, it should be somewhere that is protected from outside noise.
  • Keep the doors and windows closed.
  • Use background noise to distract them – leave the TV or the radio on.
  • Try to occupy your pet with games, toys and treats.
  • Try not to react on the noises yourself as the dog may react on your behaviour. Acting normally will help reduce its anxiety.
  • There are products that may help your pet feel more calm and relaxed such as pheromone diffusersor Thundershirts/Thundercaps that work by applying gentle pressure to make the pet feel safe and secure.

The most effective way to prevent a dog from ever developing this fear is to expose puppies to these types of noises at a young age in a comfortable, safe and controlled environment.

Have a great Bonfire Night and keep your pet safe!

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Choosing the right horse

Horse 14 - Choosing the right horse

Owning and keeping a horse is a huge responsibility and a life-long commitment. You will be entirely responsible for a living, breathing, large animal which is time consuming and carries considerable costs (accommodation stabling, bedding, feeding, shoeing, equipment and health care). Make sure you have enough time to dedicate to your horse and do some research on how much it will cost to keep it.

If you are considering getting a horse or a pony it is extremely important that you choose the one that better suits your needs. Here are a few factors that you should keep in mind:

The type of horse you are looking for

You have to take into consideration what you will be using the horse for so you can choose the right type of horse. An animal expected to compete regularly will have to be more disciplined and suited to that activity than a horse that is used for riding for example. It’s also very important to find a horse with an adequate temperament.  Horses have different personalities and you should choose a horse you get along with.

The size of the horse

In order for riding to be comfortable you must consider the size of the horse as it should be adequate to your height and weight. You should be able to mount from the ground without any help and, once mounted, your feet should rest no lower than the horse’s elbows.

Its age

Younger or less experienced horses need a lot of work and training. If you’re looking to improve your riding skills or if you don’t have the time to do a lot of training it might be better to go for an older and more experienced horse. The rider should always consider his or hers own ability, experience and riding level when choosing a horse.

Viewing and trying a horse

When you find a horse that interests you, go and see it so you can be sure this horse really meets your requirements. Prepare a list of relevant questions to ask the seller regarding the horse’s history, experience, health issues and any possible bad habits it may have. Observe its temperament and attitude carefully. It’s always a good idea to have someone experienced with you to help with this assessment and to spot any issues you may have overlooked.

Observe the handling of the horse by the owner and then handle the horse yourself. Carry out routine tasks such as grooming, tacking up and feeding. Make sure you watch someone else ride the horse first and then ride the horse yourself.

Pre purchase vet examination

Vetting a horse before purchasing it is always recommended. This is a veterinary examination carried out on the horse to identify any health problems which may interfere with what you’re hoping to use the horse for. It can be made on either a two-stage or a five-stage pre purchase vet examination.

It might be tempting to choose the two-stage vetting as it is cheaper. However, you will be missing out on important information which could lead to unforeseen vet fees and it could cost you more in the long run. Another good reason to choose the five-stage vetting is that most companies will require this examination before they consider insuring a horse.

Make the most of this examination! Ask the vet to estimate the horse’s age and compare it to what the seller has told you. If you’re still unsure about buying the horse or not ask for the vet’s professional opinion.

Finding the right horse takes time and in many cases you’ll see several horses before making a final decision. If you carefully consider all these topics you will most likely find the horse that is truly right for you!

Did you know that one of our most recent courses is all about this topic? Join the Pet Professionals club to have access to it! Click here and have a look!

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Motion sickness in dogs

Blog post - Motion sickness in dogs

How does your dog feel about car rides? Is your pet overjoyed with the idea of getting into your car or is that somehow a source of stress in his or her life?

Although all dogs can suffer from motion sickness, this is more commonly seen in puppies and young dogs. This happens because puppies don’t have all their inner ear structures fully formed yet and these structures are responsible for their balance. Puppies will usually grow out of it but sometimes the problem persists.

When dogs are feeling travel sickness they will often show one or more of these signs: panting, frequent lip-licking and yawning, restlessness, anxiety, trembling, drooling, retching and vomiting. Some dogs may even whine, bark and be reluctant to get in the car in the first place.

There are several things you can try to help reduce your dog’s nausea and make the car ride a bit more comfortable:

  • Have him or her facing forward while you’re traveling. There are specially designed dog seat belts that will not only help you with this but will also ensure your dog is safely restrained in case of accident. Please remember to disable passenger airbags if you choose to have your dog travelling in the front passenger seat.
  • Lower your car windows a couple of inches to equalise the air pressure in the car with the air pressure outside. This will keep the car cool and well ventilated, avoiding the sensation of being in a hot, stuffy vehicle.
  • Try not to feed your pet a large meal before travelling as a full stomach can make things a lot worse for a dog that tends to feel poorly during car rides.
  • Give your pet a treat or a toy to try and keep it distracted whilst on the move.
  • Take regular breaks and let your dog out on a lead to stretch his or hers legs, have some fresh air and have a drink of water.
  • Do your best to be careful with your driving and make the trip as smooth as possible.

Many dog owners prefer to have their pet travelling in a cage or a crate. Using a crate can help your pet feel more secure. It should be well ventilated and as open as possible so the dog can see out.

If the dog does not outgrow motion sickness it might benefit from a behavioural modification approach where the owner tries to get the dog used to car trips gradually. Owners can also consult their veterinary surgeon as there is medication available that can help prevent or decrease car sickness in your dog.

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Caring for an older horse

Horse 13 - Caring for an older horse

Horses, just like other domesticated animals and like us humans, are living longer. Not only their lifespan is increasing but also it is not uncommon for senior horses to enjoy productive lives well into their 20s.

Caring for a horse is a daily responsibility and all horses require basic routine care. As they age their needs change and additional care may be required to keep them as healthy as possible.

The most important areas to consider when caring for an older horse are:

  • Adequate shelter – Always make sure you provide adequate shelter and warm stabling in the winter. This is particularly important for arthritic horses.
  • Routine worming and vaccination – older horses often have lowered immunity, which means they will be less able to fight disease. They should be kept fully protected against equine influenza, against tetanus and regular worm counts should be performed to make sure your worming program is effective.
  • Regular and adequate exercise – exercise is essential to a horse’s gut health, it will help maintain muscle tone, flexibility, mobility and it is very important for horses suffering from arthritis.
  • Care for your horse’s feet – have your horse’s feet checked, trimmed and cleaned regularly. This will ensure that the foot remains balanced and healthy.
  • Diet – as horses get older their digestive system becomes less efficient, which is why it is essential to adapt a horse’s diet. In general it should be high in energy, with easily digestible protein, high quality fibre, essential vitamins and minerals, palatable, easy to chew and easy to digest.

An adequate diet must also take in consideration other factors such as your horse’s physical condition, teeth problems and any possible occurring diseases such asliver or kidney disease, or Equine Cushings Syndrome. It may be necessary to feed them a specialist diet.

Being underweight is common in older horses and many horse owners accept this as being normal. However, being underweight is not normal and it is often due to a combination of problems (inadequate diet, dental issues, parasites, metabolic changes, etc.).

Please remember that sudden changes in your horse’s feeding habits can disrupt its digestive system. All changes should be introduced gradually.

  • Health checks – elderly horses should visit the vet and have their teeth checked twice a year. Frequent health checks are the best way to catch and act on any developing problems early.

Proper care and good management will allow your senior horse to live a long, healthy, productive and very happy life!

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Why do dogs scoot their bums across the floor?

Blog post - Why do dogs scoot their bums across the floor

Most dog owners and pet lovers have seen or heard of this particular dog behaviour. It can be quite inconvenient especially if the beloved family dog drags his or hers bottom across the living room carpet.Dogs will scoot their bums along the floor when something is causing discomfort or irritation. This is a way for our pooches to somehow scratch themselves and find relief! There are several reasons why a dog may display this behaviour:

  • One of the most common causes is anal sac impaction. Dogs have two glands located on either side of their anus that produce a smelly, fatty, dark substance. This fluid is supposed to be gradually released when there is a bowel movement but sometimes the fluid builds up. If their anal sacs become inflamed, blocked, infected and sometimes even abscessed it causes discomfort and pain.  Other signs of discomfort due to anal sac problems include chewing or licking around the area, swelling around the anus and difficulty defecating.
  • If for some reason their fur around that area becomes messy, it will also cause discomfort and irritation. This is very common if your dog is suffering from diarrhoea or constipation and long-haired dogs are especially at risk of getting mats and other coat issues.
  • Another possible cause is the presence of parasites such as tapeworms. A dog will get infected by tapeworms when swallowing worm-infested fleas. These parasites will make their way through your pet’s body and end up being eliminated along with the dog’s faeces. The parasites (tiny, rice-like tapeworm segments) can often be seen on the dog’s faeces or around the dog’s anus and they will cause irritation.

If you notice that your dog often displays this behaviour or if you notice any other signs such as diarrhoea, swelling around the anus, frequent chewing or licking around the area and difficulty defecating please consult your vet. Treating the condition will not only make your pet feel much better but it will also stop this inconvenient behaviour.

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