Equine grass sickness – A difficult and devastating disease

Equine-grass-sickness

Equine grass sickness, also known as equine dysautonomia, is a debilitating and often fatal disease that causes a marked reduction of the gastrointestinal motility due to damage to the autonomic nervous system.

This condition was first recognized in 1909 in Scotland and it is seen throughout northern Europe and also South America. Great Britain has the highest incidence of grass sickness in the world and it affects horses, ponies and donkeys.

Grass sickness can occur at any age and at any time of the year but it has a seasonal pattern, with most cases being seen during spring time.

The cause of this disease is unknown but apart from grazing, different risk factors such as certain types of wormers have been identified. However, not worming a horse can have very serious consequences as well, which means that owners should not decrease their use of wormers. Many potential causes have been examined over the years and the type of damage to the nervous system suggests that a toxic substance is likely to be involved.

Grass sickness occurs in three main forms: acute, subacute and chronic form. The clinical signs depend on the level of gastrointestinal dysfunction and severity of neuronal damage.

In acute grass sickness the symptoms appear suddenly and horses show severe colic, difficulty in swallowing, salivation, muscle tremors, droopy eyelids and sweating. Subacute cases show these same symptoms but they are less severe.

Both forms are fatal and affected horses are often put down once the diagnosis is made, in order to avoid unnecessary pain and suffering.

In the chronic form of grass sickness the symptoms develop more slowly. Horses lose weight and there are changes in their abdominal silhouette. In subacute and chronic cases their faeces may become dry, firm and present a black coat and mucus on them.

The prognosis of the chronic form is poor and approximately 45% of the horses will survive with treatment. Treatment is usually considered in mild chronic cases and if the horse is eating and not in too much in pain.

Since the cause of the disease is still unknown it is very difficult to take preventive measures. Stabling the animals during spring and early summer can reduce the likelihood of disease.

There is still a lot of research being done to find the cause of this condition, which would allow preventing it and treating it in a more effective way. The most recent theory being researched is the possible involvement of a soil-associated bacterium, Clostridium botulinum.

Would you like to know more about horses? Check our Equine Courses:

Equine courses

Pets and Ebola – What do we know so far?

Dogs 20 - Pets and Ebola What do we know so far
Ebola has been a recurrent topic on the news lately and recent events involving companion animals that were in close contact with Ebola patients have raised many questions among veterinary surgeons and pet owners.

The first person to contract Ebola outside Africa was a Spanish nursing assistant called Teresa Romero Ramos. Teresa became sick after she helped treat an Ebola-stricken Spanish missionary and health Spanish authorities decided to euthanize her dog as a precaution. Animal activists and the nurse’s husband went on a campaign to save the family dog, which was sadly unsuccessful. The decision of ending this dog’s life sparked international outrage and started a worldwide debate on whether pets are actually capable of spreading Ebola and how authorities should proceed with pets that may have been exposed to the virus.

According to the World Health Organization Ebola is a viral illness of which the initial symptoms include sudden a sore throat, fever, weakness and muscle pain. As the disease progresses patients may present vomiting, diarrhoea and sometimes both internal and external bleeding. The disease is spread through direct contact with infected blood, bodily fluids or organs of infected peopleor indirectly through contact with contaminated environments and objects. Humans can also be infected through handling or consuming infected animals, including chimpanzees, fruit bats, porcupines and forest antelope. Symptomatic individuals should avoid contact with people and animals.

According to the AVMA (American Veterinary Medical Foundation) and the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention there have been no reported cases of dogs or cats becoming sick with Ebola, even in Africa where the virus is present. A few studies have shown that dogs can contract asymptomatic Ebola, meaning they are infected but do not suffer any symptoms, as a result of eating infected animals. It is not yet known whether pets can spread the virus to humans or to other animals but there has not been a single case of Ebola being transmitted from a dog or a cat to a person.

In another recent Ebola case, a nurse called Nina Pham was also diagnosed with the deadly virus after treating an Ebola patient. Her dog Bentley was quarantined for 21 days, the maximum incubation period for Ebola in the human body, and after this period of time and several Ebola tests that came back negative the dog was released and reunited with its owner.

After working with vets, public health agencies and experts the AVMA has recently issued protocols that can be used by vets and other health officials to guide their decisions on the handling and care of pets that may have been exposed to Ebola.

Would you like to know more about cats and dogs? Check our Feline and Canine Courses:

Feline courses

Canine courses

Caring for an older dog

Dogs 18 - Caring for an older dog
As our beloved dogs get into their golden years, they go through several physical and behaviour changes.

Age alone does not define a dog as being old or geriatric as aging is a process influenced by genetics and lifestyle. A dog’s size has an enormous influence in its rate of ageing. In general, when considering small and medium size breeds, dogs are considered old (senior) between 11 and 12 years and are considered geriatric when they are more than 15 years old. Large and giant breeds are considered old by the age of 7 to 10 years and a giant breed dog would be considered geriatric at 11 to 12 years.

As dogs get older they will become less active, sleep more and interact less with their surrounding environment. As a result they often put on weight.Owners may also notice their pet shows some degree of sight and hearing loss.

Their appearance changes as well as their haircoat loses shine, their skin becomes less elastic and white hairs may start to appear.

These changes will occur gradually over time and owners should be suspicious if they notice significant changes over weeks to a few months, particularly if one area is affected significantly more than others. This could suggest that there is disease involved instead of the normal ageing process. Older dogs showing sudden weight loss, marked behavioural changes, increased water intake or reduction in activity should be seen by a vet as soon as possible.

Older dogs are more prone to disease such as arthritis, a chronic and painful condition that limits their movements; dental disease; renal problems and they often present a reduced cognitive function. Some dogs may present gradual weight loss due to poor digestion.

There is much owners can do to keep their senior dog comfortable, happy and healthy. Provide a soft, warm, comfortable bed and make sure food, water and resting spots are easily accessible. Raising food bowls off the ground will bring relief to dogs with stiff and aching joints as they won’t be forced to reach down to the floor when feeding.

Try to keep a daily routine for meals, walks and bedtimes. If possible, keep your dog’s bed, food and water bowls in the same place over time.

Grooming will be necessary to keep their hair coat in good condition and it is recommended to pay special attention to their nails. The nails of less active dogs can easily become too long, curl around and grow into their pads.

It is very important for owners to control their dog’s weight and have an adequate exercise plan. This will not only prevent stiffness and loss of muscle mass but it will also alleviate arthritis symptoms. Older dogs still need to exercise, they just need to do it on a slower pace, without pushing their limits. It is best if their walks are shorter and frequent (two to three times a day).

Keep an eye on any lumps or growths. These are typical of older dogs and although some may be nothing to worry about, unfortunately, others may be cancerous.

Senior dogs should go to the vet twice a year. Regular health checks are very important to pick up on any problems as early as possible and are also a great opportunity to get some good advice from your vet regarding your dog’s diet, exercise and general health.

Have you seen our course on care of the ageing dog? This course will teach you about your dog’s natural ageing process and how to maintain his/her quality of life for as long as possible. Have a look at it here!

Would you like to know more about dogs? Check our Canine Courses:

Canine courses

A tasty treat for my horse

Horse 17 - A tasty treat for my horse

Most owners like to offer their horse a tasty treat and horses are more than happy to nibble on yummy snacks. However, it is wise to be careful with what you offer, how you offer and when you offer in order to avoid digestive problems and creating bad habits.

The best treats for a healthy horse are fruits, some vegetables and nowadays there is also a wide variety of commercial horse treats available (hay cubes, flavoured pellets, etc.). Our list of safe and healthy treats for horses includes apples, carrots, bananas, grapes, strawberries, oranges, cantaloupe or other melons, raisins and sunflower seeds. You can make healthy cookies for your horse and pony using oatmeal and shredded carrot for example. You can also offer the traditional sugar cubes and mints, just make sure these are offered in small amounts.

You should avoid feeding them with onions, potatoes, tomatoes, cabbage, broccoli, cauliflower, Brussels sprouts, kale and any other foods that tends to produce intestinal gas, grass clippings and dough products as these can cause a blockage in their digestive tract.

Many horses will quickly gulp large pieces of treat without properly chewing it first. Please remember to cut treats into smaller pieces before feeding them to your horse to minimise the risk of choking and avoid feeding them unpitted fruits.

Treats should be offered in small amounts and as a general rule, one or two pieces of treat is enough. This is very important to keep in mind if you are tempted to overindulge your horse with tasty treats. Horses have delicate digestive systems that depend on a balance of bacteria and other microbes in order to function properly. Feeding them with foods that are not part of their normal diet can upset this balance and lead to serious health problems such as colic. Your horse will always want another treat and it is up to you to say no for your horse’s sake.

The safest way to feed a treat to your horse is to use a bucket. If you want to feed it by hand please make sure to place the treat in the middle of your flat hand and push it slightly toward the horse’s mouth, rather than withdrawing your hand as he reaches towards it. This can inadvertently cause the horse to lunge for the treat and develop a bad habit over time.

Avoid giving your horse treats on a regular basis. Horses that expect a treat at a certain time and don’t get it may start exhibiting less desirable behaviours.

Most treats if feed with moderation will not negatively affect your horse. When we are discussing treats, moderation is definitely the key.

Would you like to know more about horses? Check our Equine Courses:

Equine courses

Recent study shows that dogs can be pessimistic or optimistic

Dogs 19 - Recent study shows that dogs can be pessimistic or optimistic

Have you ever noticed if your dog has an optimistic or a pessimistic character?

In general, dogs seem cheerful and happy with their tail wags and enthusiasm for outdoor walks. For this reason most owners would probably think that their four-legged friend has an optimistic outlook on life. A recent study has showed that some dogs are distinctly more pessimistic than others!

In this study, the dogs were trained in a discrimination task involving two different sounds and two different rewards. They learned that if they touched a target after hearing a certain tone, they would get a lactose-free milk reward and if they touched the target after hearing another tone, they would get water instead of milk. This caused them to abstain from touching the target after hearing the tone associated with water because they really preferred to get milk as a reward. Then the dogs were presented with ‘ambiguous’ tones.

This test showed how optimistic they are by which tones they responded to. Dogs were considered optimistic if they responded to ambiguous tones expecting to receive milk as a reward (a positive outcome). A very optimistic dog would even respond to tones that sounded more like those played before water is offered.

Dogs were considered pessimistic if they showed more signs of stress when they felt they had failed the task. These dogs would whine, pace and avoid repeating the task while the optimistic dogs would not be bothered by their lack of success and would continue trying.

Optimistic dogs expect good things to happen and therefore, will happily take more risks. They are persistent and they’re not so affected by less positive outcomes. If things don’t go their way they will move past that and try again. On the other hand, pessimistic dogs will show more signs of stress if something doesn’t go their way, they will not risk as much and will give up more quickly if they have to face less positive outcomes. These dogs might need some encouragement to try new things.

This research has great potential as it measures positive and negative emotional states in dogs objectively and non-invasively, and can completely remodel how animal welfare is assessed. These findings can be used to find how a dog is feeling in any environment, assess how effective enrichment activities might be and pinpoint exactly what a dog finds emotionally distressing.

It can also be very helpful in the context of working and service dogs, helping dog trainers select dogs best suited to working roles. A pessimistic dog, not so keen on taking risks would be better as a guide dog while an optimistic, persistent dog would be more suited to detecting drugs or explosives.

Would you like to know more about dogs? Check our Canine Courses:

Canine courses

Equine nutrition and feeding

Horse 16 - Equine nutrition and feeding

An appropriate diet and balanced nutrition is essential for a horse’s healthy development, overall well-being and long term health. In general, the equine diet must include carbohydrates, proteins, minerals, vitamins and water.

A horse’s dietary requirements will depend on its age, size, physiologic state and amount of work performed. Exercising, working or growing horses as well as lactating mares will have higher demands for energy so their feed intake should be adjusted according to their needs. Horses that are overweight, ill or ageing will need specific diet adjustments as well.

The most important part of all feeding programs for horses is good quality grasses, hay or forage. This is an invaluable source of energy, nutrients and fibre that also plays an essential part in teeth wear and good intestinal motility. Hay must be stored properly to avoid mould, dust and rodents. It is also very important to remember that high quality hay encourages a horse’s appetite.

In general, forages are classified as grasses (such as timothy, orchard and brome) and legumes (such as clover or alfalfa). Legumes usually contain more protein, calcium, and energy than grass hay.

In order to achieve a balanced diet, you may need to add concentrates (compound mix) to provide any nutrients that might be missing from the forage. Concentrates include all grains (such as oats, corn or barley) and are high in protein and energy. Grain should be fed in small amounts as it can upset a horse’s digestive system.

A horse’s diet must also include mineral supplementation for adequate bone development and good general health. Horses need adequate amounts of calcium and phosphorus as well as trace minerals such as iodine, copper, iron, manganese and selenium.

Commercial feeds usually have the appropriate amount of minerals and vitamins added to meet a horse’s requirements and horses that consume fresh green pasture will also receive proper amounts of minerals in their diet, except for salt. Horses should have access to free choice salt and clean water to drink at all times.

Horses regularly subjected to moderate to intense work lose electrolytes (sodium, potassium, and chloride) in their sweat. In these particular cases it may necessary to supplement both salt (sodium and chloride) and potassium.

Another relevant topic is the calcium : phosphorus ratio. The body’s response to high levels of phosphorus in the blood stream is to withdraw calcium from the bonesto balance the calcium : phosphorus ratio, so it’s important to keep the phosphorus within normal levels. When buying commercial feeds or premixes it is very important to check if the calcium : phosphorus ratio is between 1:1 and 2:1.

Grazing animals do not have to deal with this issue since phosphorus is fairly low in grasses but grains, on the other hand, are very high in phosphorus.

Horses need to have Vitamin A, D and E in their diet. Good quality hay, fresh green forages and/or premixed rations often contain all the necessary vitamins for a horse.

Body condition scoring is an important tool to monitor your horse’s weight. The ideal body condition score for a horse is between 4 and 5 (on the 9-point scale, with 1 being extremely thin and 9 being extremely fat). As a general rule your horse’s ribs should not be visually distinguished but should be easily felt.

Your horse’s feed intake and amount of exercise should be managed according to your horse’s body condition score and weight. Please remember that overweight horses are more susceptible to conditions such as laminitis, exercise intolerance, inefficient thermoregulation (over-heating) and metabolic disorders.

It is also very important to keep in mind that the equine gastrointestinal tract is not prepared to go without food for any period of time. If it is not possible for a horse to have free access to grass or hay (forage) or to be offered frequent, small meals throughout the day, then it should be fed at regular intervals in order to reduce the amount of time its digestive tract is empty.

If you need to make any changes in horse’s diet please make sure those are introduced gradually over a 7 to 10 day period, so the horse’s digestive system has time to adjust.

We have a new course about equine nutrition and feeding! Have a look at the course’s description here!

Would you like to know more about horses? Check our Equine Courses:

Equine courses

Raising awareness about the dangers of giving pets human medication

Raising-awareness-about-the-dangers-of-giving-pets-human-medication

A recent survey carried out amongst 100 veterinary practitioners by a UK based insurance company, revealed that more than 75% of the participating vets reported to have treated pets that have ingested human medication in the last year. While on most of these cases animals had ingested human medicines by accident, in 28% of them (over a quarter!) owners had deliberately given human drugs to their pets. Most cases (76 per cent) involved dogs, however other animal species were also affected.

According to the survey the most common types of medication ingested were paracetamol, ibuprofen, specificprescribed medications (e.g. for heart conditions or diabetes) contraceptive pills, anti-depressants and sleeping tablets. Pet owners believed that paracetamol would help their pet with conditions like arthritis and limping.

Many owners are not aware that giving human medication to pets is extremely dangerous as it can cause serious illnesses or even death! These incidents happen because owners are trying to help a pet that seems unwell and often believe that if a drug is safe for us, it is also safe for our four-legged friends. This is particularly common with pain relief medications. These caring owners have their hearts in the right place but by trying to help their pet with human drugs they are in fact putting them at risk!

Many human medicines are toxic for pets. Even if the active substance within a human drug is also appropriate for a dog, for example, the adequate dose to be administered is very different.

Our companion animals have different metabolisms from humans which means that human medications can have devastating effects on their organs. A drug that is safe for people like paracetamol or ibuprofen can cause liver and kidney failure to pets. In some cases, the toxic effect of these drugs can be fatal.

Please be very careful and keep all medications out of reach from your pets. Do not assume that a smaller amount of human medicine is safe for your pet and seek veterinary advice before giving it any type of medication.If you suspect that your furry friend has ingested human medication, take it to see a vet immediately.

Would you like to know more about cats and dogs? Check our Feline and Canine Courses:

Feline courses

Canine courses

Understanding your horse’s nutritional requirements

Horse 15 - Understanding your horse's nutritional requirements
The best way for owners to understand their horse’s dietary needs is for them to know how the equine digestive system works.

In the wild, horses will spend most of their time grazing freely across the countryside and keeping themselves safe from predators. They will eat small amounts of grass throughout the day, choosing immature forages that are easy to digest. This means that the equine digestive tract has evolved to process frequent, small amounts of food naturally rich in nutrients and fibre. Under these conditions, digestive problems are unlikely.

Nowadays, a domesticated horse’s lifestyle has very little to do with its wild counterparts. Horses are confined to pastures or paddocks which limits their movement and their feed choices. Horses will eat what is available or what is provided by their caretakers, who usually don’t have the time to offer several small amounts of food every day. As a result, horses are often fed a large quantity of food, sometimes in a single daily meal. Horses’ nutritional requirements have also changed due to the increase in their workload.

As you can imagine, all these changes to a horse’s natural feeding habits can have serious consequences on its digestive system.

The equine digestive tract is not prepared to be empty for any length of time, as this can cause damage in their stomach lining and lead to gastric ulcers. If it is not possible for a horse to have free access to grass or hay (forage) or to be offered frequent, small meals throughout the day, then it should be fed at regular intervals in order to reduce the amount of time its digestive tract is empty.

Horses are able to get nutritional content from grasses and hay because their digestive system contains microorganisms (in the cecum and colon) that are capable of breaking down structural carbohydrates. These will then be turned into molecules that can be absorbed by the horse and transformed into energy. This particular characteristic of the horse’s digestive system is also the reason why there shouldn’t be any sudden changes in their diet. If any change is needed, the diet should be gradually altered over a 7 to 10 day period, so the resident bacterial population in their hindgut has time to adapt to the change.

A horse’s nutritional requirements will depend on age, size, physiologic state and amount of work performed. In general, a mature, healthy horse will only require good quality hay, mineral supplementation, free-choice salt and water at all times. Exercising, working or growing horses as well as lactating mares will have higher demands for energy so their feed intake should be adjusted according to their needs.

It is also very important to keep an eye on your horse’s body condition and weight so you can adjust its feed intake and amount of exercise accordingly. Please remember that obese horses are more prone to suffer from conditions such as laminitis, exercise intolerance, inefficient thermoregulation (over-heating) and metabolic disorders.

We have a new course about equine nutrition and feeding! Have a look at the course’s description here!

Would you like to know more about horses? Check our Equine Courses:

Equine courses

Bonfire night is almost here! Is your pet afraid of fireworks?

Dogs 16 - Bonfire night is almost here Is your pet afraid of fireworks

Fireworks season is upon us and although this is a time of great fun for us, it can cause a lot of fear and stress to our pets. Some dogs are absolutely terrified of those loud, sudden bangs and it is truly heart-breaking to see them hiding, shaking and cowering underneath the furniture!

The best way to help your pet if he or she suffers with this type of phobia is to start addressing the problem before fireworks season begins. Please remember that most therapies can take some time to become effective.

Sound therapy CDs can work very well for mild phobias in adult dogs. These CDs can help dogs become desensitised and overcome their fear of loud noises.

Pets suffering from a moderate to severe phobia may benefit from medication that can be prescribed by your veterinary surgeon. For long term treatment, it is recommended to resort to a qualified pet behaviourist.

This problem has very serious consequences. It is very common for dogs to run off in fear and end up lost in the middle of all the ruckus. A pet insurance company has revealed in a recent article that 35% more dogs are reported missing on this night than any other of the year. Given these statistics it is very important for owners to take steps to ensure their pets remain safe at their homes.

If your pet is not microchipped yet this is a very good time to consider it. If your pet is already chipped please make sure all your details are all up to date with the microchipping company. Hundreds of lost pet are never returned to their owners due to lack of identification or because the details in the microchip database are incorrect or not up to date.

Since Bonfire Night is upon us, here are a few tips that can help your pet go through this stressful time:

  • Walk you pet during the day and before the event.
  • Provide a den or a covered area with comfortable bedding for your pet to snuggle into, where he or she can hide and feel safe. If possible, it should be somewhere that is protected from outside noise.
  • Keep the doors and windows closed.
  • Use background noise to distract them – leave the TV or the radio on.
  • Try to occupy your pet with games, toys and treats.
  • Try not to react on the noises yourself as the dog may react on your behaviour. Acting normally will help reduce its anxiety.
  • There are products that may help your pet feel more calm and relaxed such as pheromone diffusersor Thundershirts/Thundercaps that work by applying gentle pressure to make the pet feel safe and secure.

The most effective way to prevent a dog from ever developing this fear is to expose puppies to these types of noises at a young age in a comfortable, safe and controlled environment.

Have a great Bonfire Night and keep your pet safe!

Would you like to know more about cats and dogs? Check our Feline and Canine Courses:

Feline courses

Canine courses

Choosing the right horse

Horse 14 - Choosing the right horse

Owning and keeping a horse is a huge responsibility and a life-long commitment. You will be entirely responsible for a living, breathing, large animal which is time consuming and carries considerable costs (accommodation stabling, bedding, feeding, shoeing, equipment and health care). Make sure you have enough time to dedicate to your horse and do some research on how much it will cost to keep it.

If you are considering getting a horse or a pony it is extremely important that you choose the one that better suits your needs. Here are a few factors that you should keep in mind:

The type of horse you are looking for

You have to take into consideration what you will be using the horse for so you can choose the right type of horse. An animal expected to compete regularly will have to be more disciplined and suited to that activity than a horse that is used for riding for example. It’s also very important to find a horse with an adequate temperament.  Horses have different personalities and you should choose a horse you get along with.

The size of the horse

In order for riding to be comfortable you must consider the size of the horse as it should be adequate to your height and weight. You should be able to mount from the ground without any help and, once mounted, your feet should rest no lower than the horse’s elbows.

Its age

Younger or less experienced horses need a lot of work and training. If you’re looking to improve your riding skills or if you don’t have the time to do a lot of training it might be better to go for an older and more experienced horse. The rider should always consider his or hers own ability, experience and riding level when choosing a horse.

Viewing and trying a horse

When you find a horse that interests you, go and see it so you can be sure this horse really meets your requirements. Prepare a list of relevant questions to ask the seller regarding the horse’s history, experience, health issues and any possible bad habits it may have. Observe its temperament and attitude carefully. It’s always a good idea to have someone experienced with you to help with this assessment and to spot any issues you may have overlooked.

Observe the handling of the horse by the owner and then handle the horse yourself. Carry out routine tasks such as grooming, tacking up and feeding. Make sure you watch someone else ride the horse first and then ride the horse yourself.

Pre purchase vet examination

Vetting a horse before purchasing it is always recommended. This is a veterinary examination carried out on the horse to identify any health problems which may interfere with what you’re hoping to use the horse for. It can be made on either a two-stage or a five-stage pre purchase vet examination.

It might be tempting to choose the two-stage vetting as it is cheaper. However, you will be missing out on important information which could lead to unforeseen vet fees and it could cost you more in the long run. Another good reason to choose the five-stage vetting is that most companies will require this examination before they consider insuring a horse.

Make the most of this examination! Ask the vet to estimate the horse’s age and compare it to what the seller has told you. If you’re still unsure about buying the horse or not ask for the vet’s professional opinion.

Finding the right horse takes time and in many cases you’ll see several horses before making a final decision. If you carefully consider all these topics you will most likely find the horse that is truly right for you!

Did you know that one of our most recent courses is all about this topic? Join the Pet Professionals club to have access to it! Click here and have a look!

Would you like to know more about horses? Check our Equine Courses:

Equine courses

Just another WordPress site