Cats, Dogs

Slug pellet poisoning

Dogs 33 - Slug pellet poisoning

During wet weather the number of slugs and snails increases dramatically as this type of weather provides an ideal environment for these animals. Slug pellets are commonly used to control their numbers in order to protect our gardens, orchards and vegetable farms.

Although they are meant for slugs and snails, unfortunately these bright blue or green-coloured pellets are the cause of several cases of poisoning in dogs and cats. The problem is that slug bait often contains metaldehyde, a substance that is toxic for our pets and for our wildlife.

This type of poisoning can affect dogs and cats but it is more commonly seen in dogs. The pellets are toxic even if ingested in small amounts. Severe clinical signs can occur about an hour after ingesting the pellets and it is very important for owners to be aware of this type of toxicity, since poisoned pets will need urgent veterinary treatment.

Affected animals will show incoordination, muscle spasms, muscle rigidity, twitching, tremors and seizures (fits) and possibly respiratory failure. As with all types of poisoning the sooner your pet receives treatment the better are its chances of making a full recovery.

The safest way to protect your pets from this type of poisoning is to avoid using these dangerous chemicals in your garden. If you need to use slug and snail bait you can choose a pet friendly product (pellets that do not contain metaldehyde) or you can make sure you keep your pets away from the areas where these pellets are used.

It is also very important to always use the slug and snail bait following the instructions on the package to the letter. Avoid spreading excessive and unnecessary piles of pellets to minimise the risks.  Many cases of poisoning resulted from inquisitive dogs that swallowed entire boxes of pellets found in their homes so please make sure you keep the package stored safely!

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Socialisation is not just for dogs! The socialisation period is very important for kittens too!

Cats 6 - Socialisation is not just for dogs

In general, we hear a lot about puppy socialisation and how this process is extremely important for the character of the adult dog. However, this critical and sensitive period is important for all species and this includes our feline companions!

Just like as it is with dogs your kitten’s first experiences are crucial and will shape its behaviour and personality as an adult cat. Cats that are not properly socialised are far more likely to be nervous, anxious and scared which will then lead to behaviour problems. Adequate and early socialisation on the other hand, will lead to friendly, relaxed and well-adjusted adult cats!

Ideally the socialisation process starts when the kittens are still with the breeder or with the owner of the litter. A kitten’s socialisation period is between 2 and 14 weeks of age. During this period kittens are much more open to new experiences and will handle them better.

During this time it is recommended for kittens to spend time with their mother and with their litter mates, to contact with different people (adults and children) and with other animals. Kittens should be exposed new things such as smells, sounds, places and new environments. Ideally during this time they can get used to all the things that will probably be a part of their lives someday such as litter and litter boxes, cat flaps, cat carriers, being groomed, household appliances, car trips or going to the vet.

They should also be handled frequently and gently in order to become friendly and approachable. Handling should include being lifted and gently restrained by familiar an unfamiliar people. This must be done in frequent but short sessions as you don’t want to force the kitten but rather gradually allow him or her to handle and feel comfortable in new situations. These experiences should then be continuously reinforced throughout the kitten’s life.

Providing a wide variety of positive experiences during this time of a kitten’s life will provide him or her with necessary life-skills to cope with their future challenges, will contribute to a stronger bond between them and their owner and will have a tremendous impact on its lifelong welfare.

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Horses

According to a recent study electric fencing causes no more stress on a horse than normal fencing

Horse 27 - Electric fencing causes no more stress on a horse than normal fencing

The use of electric fences to keep horses from escaping their designated areas or fields has become very common all over the UK. However, there are some concerns regarding the negative effects these electric fencing systems can potentially have on horse behaviour, causing chronic stress and reducing the use of the accessible space.

According to anew Swiss study, the researchers have found no evidence of stress in horses as a result of being contained within electric fencing. However, the study concluded that horses in electrically fenced and small paddocks would use less available area and were less likely to roll.

Twenty horses between the ages of six and eight-teen years old participated in this study and researchers measured their stress responses while they were kept in four different grass outdoor enclosures. These areas had two different sizes and were equipped with either wooden fencing or electric fencing. The smaller areas had 12.25 square metres and the larger areas had 36 square metres.

The horses were systematically rotated between the four areas, spending 90 minutes in each one. The scientist focused on quantifying any stress responses of the horses kept in these paddocks and during the experiments they recorded their behaviour on video so they could later evaluate their behavioural patterns and the use of the available paddock area. While on the different enclosures the horse’s heart rates were measured and samples of saliva were obtained for cortisol analysis as well.

According to this study, there was no difference between the two fence types in the overall analysis of all the stress-indicating parameters and it did not matter whether the enclosed area was large or small. This means that based on the measured physiological parameters the horses did not display any more stress for being in an area with an electric fence than the ones that were on wooden-fenced areas.

However this study also showed that horses in the electrically fenced and small enclosures moved around less, using around 50 centimetres less of the available space (the border area). The horses in these paddocks were also less likely to roll.

This study shows the importance of the paddock’s size for these animals, since horses that have space to move around and exhibit their normal behaviour are much happier.

http://www.appliedanimalbehaviour.com/article/S0168-1591(15)00094-5/abstract?cc=y

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Cats

Cats and milk

Cats 5 - Cats and milk

Many cats seem to love drinking milk and will react very enthusiastically when their owners offer them that treat. However, what many cat owners are not aware is that milk might not be the best thing for your cat.

Cats only really need milk when they are very young. To digest lactose, the sugar in milk, cats need an enzyme called lactase and this enzyme’s activity declines when cats grow up. After weaning, they gradually lose their ability to digest lactose, often becoming lactose intolerant.

For these cats this means that when they drink milk and the lactose in it reaches their intestines, it cannot pass through the intestinal wall into the bloodstream. The lactose will remain on the intestines, drawing water from the intestinal walls and cause the gut flora to become unbalanced. By this time fermentation sets in and large amounts of gas are produced. All of this causes abdominal pain, occasionally vomiting and diarrhoea.

Some cat owners often try to offer their cats goat’s milk but it has just as much lactose as cow’s milk, so it is very unlikely to be any better. Our recommendation for all cat owners is to stop giving milk to your cat, if he or she feels abdominal discomfort or gets diarrhoea. The truth is that cats only really need water and good quality food to be healthy.

If your cat really loves milk and you are reluctant to deprive him or her of that treat you can always buy “Cat Milk” (lactose-free milk) from pet food stores, vets or supermarkets, which is basically milk that had most of its lactose removed and is less likely to cause these harmful reactions.

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Cats, Dogs

Health benefits of pet ownership

Dogs 32 - Health benefits of pet ownership
Most pet owners have probably already heard or read somewhere that there are many health benefits associated with pet ownership. Although there is still controversy over these results, many scientific studies have been suggesting that pets can bring advantages to their owner’s health.

Studies have shown that people with pets had lower cholesterol and triglyceride levels when compared to people who did not have pets, even when matched for weight, diet and smoking habits. It has been proved that pet owners will exercise more on average (even if it is just mild exercise) than people that do not have pets. This makes perfect sense given that responsible pet owners will spend time and energy caring for their pets and dog owners in particular, will take their canine friends for walks.

It has also been proved that dogs can reduce stress. Stroking a pet or simply having them in the same room can temporarily lower a person’s blood pressure. Other studies suggest pet owners have a lower cardiovascular risk and among the humans that have suffered a heart attack, pet owners seem to have higher rates of survival.

There also seems to be lots of benefits for children. Studies have suggested that growing up with pets can decrease the chances of suffering from asthma, ear infections and reactions to airborne allergens.

The benefits for children don’t seem to stop there. Pets can not only be a playful companion but they also play a very important role in the development of a child’s personality. Pets teach children important life-skills such as taking responsibility, managing their time, sharing and caring for others. Some studies have reported that children who grow up with pets become more nurturing and empathetic adults.

More research is necessary to fully clarify these findings. One thing is certain. Pets can help their humans from a psychological perspective. Pets are excellent topics to start a conversation and pet owners find themselves sharing stories about their pets with other pet owners, without even making much effort for that to happen. Just the fact that pets can help us make friends can indirectly, help reduce our feelings of isolation, depression and enhance other positive feelings such as self-esteem and self-worth.

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Heatstroke in dogs

Dogs 31 - Heatstroke in dogs

Warm weather means enjoying outdoor activities and for dogs and dog owners alike these are great news! It’s time for pleasant walks outside, outdoor sports and even going for a swim! However the summer heat can be a bit too much for our furry companions so this is an excellent time to remind owners how to recognise the signs of heat stroke and what they should do if they see a dog in distress.
A dog suffering from heat stroke will present excessive panting, drooling an abnormally high heart rate and an anxious behaviour. As the condition progresses the dog may seem confused, uncoordinated and their gums and tongue turn red. Some dogs will present vomiting and diarrhoea. In a small amount of time the dog can collapse, go into shock and ultimately die.

Many of these incidents happen because people are not aware that dogs can’t handle high temperatures very well. Unlike us, dogs can only sweat through their foot pads and they lose body heat mainly through panting. This means that they are unable to lower their body temperature as efficiently as a human would and it means that if the air around them is hot as well, panting becomes very ineffective.

If you notice any of the previously mentioned signs on a dog the first thing you need to do is to remove the dog from the heated area immediately. Then you must gradually bring the dog’s temperature down and take it straight to the vet. Offer the dog frequent but small amounts of cool water at a time and apply cold, wet towels directly to the dog’s skin in the abdominal area, groin, head and neck. You can also use cool fans and air conditioning to help dissipate the heat.If possible, take the dog’s rectal temperature every 10 minutes. As soon as it reaches 103°F (39°C) you can stop with the cooling efforts since from that point on the dog will be able to stabilise its temperature on its own.

Ideally you should proceed with the cooling measures on the way to the vet. Dogs suffering from heat stroke go through severe dehydration, which can cause internal organ damage. Even if a dog seems to have recovered after the cooling process, it is still recommend to be brought to the vet as soon as possible.
This information is very important for all dog owners. If owners are able to quickly recognise the first signs of heat stroke they will be able to act immediately and save that dog’s life!

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Horses

Equine castration

Horse 26 - Equine castration
Equine castration is a very common procedure in which the veterinary surgeon removes both testicles from a horse under the effect of anaesthesia. This procedure is usually carried out for management issues and to prevent unwanted pregnancy.

Stallions often become very difficult to handle as they get older. They may try to establish herd dominance by fighting with other male horses and they will also try to mate with the females, leading to unexpected and unwanted pregnancies. This procedure removes the testicles, which are the primary source of hormones, decreasing the horse’s display of male sexual behaviour. After neutering horses become more docile and a lot more manageable. The procedure will also prevent other problems such as testicular tumours and inguinal hernias.

Colts can be castrated at any age but if owners want to avoid the appearance of sexual behaviour, horses should be castrated by the time they are two years old. Vets often prefer to castrate earlier as it this usually means less risks and complications.
The procedure can be done at your home or at a veterinary surgery. It is usually carried out during autumn to avoid the flies or during spring to avoid the wet winter weather.
Your veterinary surgeon will always do a complete physical examination on your horse to make sure he is fit for surgery. In addition, it is very important for the horse to be protected against tetanus. If the primary course of vaccinations is not complete, tetanus antitoxin will be administered at the time of castration to provide immediate protection against the disease.

There are different techniques to perform this procedure. The surgery might take place with the horse standing and under heavy sedation or more commonly with the horse lying down. In general this is a safe surgery and castrated horses experience very few postoperative complications, but as with any operation there are risks. Although the incidence of anaesthetic deaths is low it can occur in healthy horses and for no apparent reason. Other risks include post-operative bleeding, injury as a result of a poor recovery once the anaesthetic wears off, scrotal herniation and infection.

Some swelling around the area after the surgery is normal and it usually takes 3-5 days to disappear. The wound can take up to 3 weeks to heal and the horse is usually able to return to work after a month.

Most wounds heal without any complications but it is recommended to monitor the horse closely after surgery. If you notice that the swelling seems to be getting worse or lasting longer than expected, if you notice any material protruding from the incision site, excessive bleeding or if the horse seems depressed and with lack of appetite, contact your veterinary surgeon for advice.

It’s very important for horse owners to remember not to turn their colt out with mares for three months after the procedure as they will potentially remain fertile during this period.

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Dogs

Are you ready to get a new dog?

Sainsbury article - Are you ready to get a new dog

Owning a dog can be incredibly rewarding but it is also a huge responsibility! In a recent article by Sainsbury’s Bank you can find lots of useful and important information on everything you need to know and consider before getting a new dog.

Future dog owners must ask themselves if they have the time, the money and the means to deal with such a long term commitment. The average dog has a 12 year lifespan and will need to be walked, groomed, trained and cared for on a daily basis. Expenses such as food, veterinary fees and pet insurance also need to be accounted for.

If the answer to these questions is yes then it is time to decide what type of dog would better suit the owner’s personality and lifestyle. Some owners might be better suited with an older dog rather than a puppy and there are plenty of breeds to choose from.

Once your puppy/dog is chosen it’s important to have all the essential items dog owners will need for their new dog such as a lead, a collar and/or harness, food and water bowls, grooming equipment, etc.

The article then moves on to some very useful tips on how to dog-proof your home:

  • Hide electrical cables behind furniture/ tape to baseboards
  • Remove all breakable objects that your dog might reach
  • Place any household chemicals out of reach
  • Remove poisonous/toxic houseplants
  • Hide shoes in cupboards

An essential part of your new dog’s arrival is the way he or she is introduced to other family members. It’s important to include children in a puppy’s upbringing, regardless of whether there are any kids in your home or not and you should always insist that the dog approaches the child, rather than the other way round.

As for other dogs the ideal is to introduce them on neutral territory, such as out on a walk. You should not leave them alone together until they’re friendly and separate them if they start to fight. If there are cats in the household, the introduction should be made gradually and carefully. The cat must always be able to remove himself from the situation if he or she is not feeling comfortable.

If you are getting a puppy you’ll need to do some toilet training. Please remember to take your new puppy out as regularly as possible (puppies should be able to relieve themselves at least every two hours) and to give him or her lots of praise when they successfully poo/wee outside.

Other important considerations include:

  • Identification – by law dogs must wear a collar and tag in public places, with their owner’s name, address and telephone number on it and microchipping will be compulsory from April 2016 in England, Wales and Scotland
  • Check-ups, vaccinations and neutering – most veterinary practices provide health care packages that work alongside your pet insurance, helping to manage the costs of both check-ups and preventative treatments
  • Choosing the right insurance – Policies vary when it comes to the level of cover they offer. It’s a good idea to research and compare pet insurance policies before you make a final decision.

To have access to the full Sainsbury’s article with all the information on how to prepare for a new dog please click on the link below:

https://www.sainsburysbank.co.uk/library/default/pdf/preparing-for-a-new-dog.pdf

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Cats and litter boxes

 Cats and litter Boxes

Cats 4 - Cats and litter boxes

Litter boxes and their management are extremely important for the health and well-being of the cats who use them. In fact, this is so important that there is quite a lot of scientific research on this matter.

When we are talking about litter boxes, owners must consider how many litter boxes they should have, their size, their location and how they are managed on a daily basis. On this post we will focus on how many litter boxes owners should provide to their cats and their size. We will approach the remaining topics on a future post.

In general it is considered that the bigger the litter box the better. It should be rectangular and at least 1.5 times the length of the cat from nose to base of its tail. This is very important as many of the litter boxes available at stores are often too small for an average sized cat.

If you are not happy with the size of the litter boxes you find in regular pet stores you can always find cleaver alternatives in home improvement stores or department stores. Concrete mixing trays, sweater boxes and under-bed storage containers can be excellent litter trays and if you happen to find a good container with a lid, you can even use the lid placed upright behind the litter box to protect the wall from the litter spread by the cat. The cat should be able to get in and out of the box with no difficulties, especially if it is an older cat or one with degenerative joint disease. Keeping this in mind you might have to cut down the side the box if it’s too deep. Please have a look at the example below:

Litter Box

(Image via http://jfm.sagepub.com/content/16/7/579.full.pdf+html)

The number of litter boxes is also very important especially if you have more than one cat. As a general rule households with one cat should have two litter boxes in two different locations. If there is more than one cat there should be at least one more litter box than the total number of cats.

If you have more than one cat at home you might need less litter boxes depending on how well your cats get along. Cats that belong to the same social group, which means that they will spend lots of time together and groom each other, will happily share the same litter box. On the other hand, cats that are not socially affiliated should really have separate litter trays to avoid stress and house-soiling problems.

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Dogs

Never leave you dog locked in the car during the warm season!

Dogs 30 - Never leave you dog locked in the car

Never leave you dog locked in the car during the warm season!

Most animal lovers have probably heard of this problem but talking about this and spreading the word around is the best way to save lives: canine lives.

Owners should never leave their dogs unattended and locked in their car during the warm season, even if the windows are left open or if they’re parked in the shade. The problem lies in the fact that many pet owners are not aware of how high temperatures can rise inside a locked car, how fast that can happen and how dangerous this is for a dog left inside.

Dogs don’t sweat like we do. They cool themselves mainly by panting. This means that if the air around them is too hot they are physically unable to regulate their body temperature which is exactly what happens when they are trapped in the car.

A car can become an incredible hot oven quite fast, even when it doesn’t feel that warm to us outside. If it’s 22 degrees outside, the temperature inside the car can reach an amazing 47 degrees within an hour. In a hot day a dog can die of severe dehydration and heat exhaustion in just a few minutes!

Unware owners that need to quickly pop into a store and leave their pet locked in the car in a hot day, can be condemning their pet to suffer an agonising death. It only takes a couple of minutes!

You may also wonder what to do if you ever find a dog under these circumstances. If you ever see a dog locked in a hot car call the police on 999, the Fire brigade or the RSPCA 24-hour cruelty line 0300 1234 999 and stay with the dog until help arrives. If you see that the dog is in severe distress call 999 and ask permission to break the car’s window. You can also alert the manager of any nearby businesses as it is likely for the owner to be somewhere in the shop.

An animal lover’s first thought would be to immediately break the window and remove the dog from that awful situation. However it is important to keep in mind that only the Police, the Fire Brigade or the RSPCA are allowed to break a car window to access a dog in distress. Members of the public will have to pay for the damage if they break the window without permission.

Have a wonderful summer and keep your dog safe!

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