The use of electric fences to keep horses from escaping their designated areas or fields has become very common all over the UK. However, there are some concerns regarding the negative effects these electric fencing systems can potentially have on horse behaviour, causing chronic stress and reducing the use of the accessible space.

According to anew Swiss study, the researchers have found no evidence of stress in horses as a result of being contained within electric fencing. However, the study concluded that horses in electrically fenced and small paddocks would use less available area and were less likely to roll.

Twenty horses between the ages of six and eight-teen years old participated in this study and researchers measured their stress responses while they were kept in four different grass outdoor enclosures. These areas had two different sizes and were equipped with either wooden fencing or electric fencing. The smaller areas had 12.25 square metres and the larger areas had 36 square metres.

The horses were systematically rotated between the four areas, spending 90 minutes in each one. The scientist focused on quantifying any stress responses of the horses kept in these paddocks and during the experiments they recorded their behaviour on video so they could later evaluate their behavioural patterns and the use of the available paddock area. While on the different enclosures the horse’s heart rates were measured and samples of saliva were obtained for cortisol analysis as well.

According to this study, there was no difference between the two fence types in the overall analysis of all the stress-indicating parameters and it did not matter whether the enclosed area was large or small. This means that based on the measured physiological parameters the horses did not display any more stress for being in an area with an electric fence than the ones that were on wooden-fenced areas.

However this study also showed that horses in the electrically fenced and small enclosures moved around less, using around 50 centimetres less of the available space (the border area). The horses in these paddocks were also less likely to roll.

This study shows the importance of the paddock’s size for these animals, since horses that have space to move around and exhibit their normal behaviour are much happier.

http://www.appliedanimalbehaviour.com/article/S0168-1591(15)00094-5/abstract?cc=y

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Equine castration is a very common procedure in which the veterinary surgeon removes both testicles from a horse under the effect of anaesthesia. This procedure is usually carried out for management issues and to prevent unwanted pregnancy.

Stallions often become very difficult to handle as they get older. They may try to establish herd dominance by fighting with other male horses and they will also try to mate with the females, leading to unexpected and unwanted pregnancies. This procedure removes the testicles, which are the primary source of hormones, decreasing the horse’s display of male sexual behaviour. After neutering horses become more docile and a lot more manageable. The procedure will also prevent other problems such as testicular tumours and inguinal hernias.

Colts can be castrated at any age but if owners want to avoid the appearance of sexual behaviour, horses should be castrated by the time they are two years old. Vets often prefer to castrate earlier as it this usually means less risks and complications.
The procedure can be done at your home or at a veterinary surgery. It is usually carried out during autumn to avoid the flies or during spring to avoid the wet winter weather.
Your veterinary surgeon will always do a complete physical examination on your horse to make sure he is fit for surgery. In addition, it is very important for the horse to be protected against tetanus. If the primary course of vaccinations is not complete, tetanus antitoxin will be administered at the time of castration to provide immediate protection against the disease.

There are different techniques to perform this procedure. The surgery might take place with the horse standing and under heavy sedation or more commonly with the horse lying down. In general this is a safe surgery and castrated horses experience very few postoperative complications, but as with any operation there are risks. Although the incidence of anaesthetic deaths is low it can occur in healthy horses and for no apparent reason. Other risks include post-operative bleeding, injury as a result of a poor recovery once the anaesthetic wears off, scrotal herniation and infection.

Some swelling around the area after the surgery is normal and it usually takes 3-5 days to disappear. The wound can take up to 3 weeks to heal and the horse is usually able to return to work after a month.

Most wounds heal without any complications but it is recommended to monitor the horse closely after surgery. If you notice that the swelling seems to be getting worse or lasting longer than expected, if you notice any material protruding from the incision site, excessive bleeding or if the horse seems depressed and with lack of appetite, contact your veterinary surgeon for advice.

It’s very important for horse owners to remember not to turn their colt out with mares for three months after the procedure as they will potentially remain fertile during this period.

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Pinworms (Oxyuris equi) are roundworms that live in a horse’s large intestine. Although these parasites don’t have much impact in a horse’s health, they can be very irritating causing itchiness around its tail and anal region.

The adult worms have a white-grey colour and the males are quite smaller than the females. The male worms usually exist in low numbers and are less than 1 cm long. The females however, can grow up to about 15 cm in length.

In order to lay their eggs females will migrate from the large intestine to the horse’s anus where they partially emerge from the sphincter to lay their sticky eggs on the skin around the anus (outside the horse’s body). The eggs are deposited in an easily recognisable yellow, white or green sticky fluid. These will hatch and become infective in three to five days. Then they will drop and end up contaminating the horse’s environment, being able to survive for several months unhatched.

Horses become infected when they ingest the eggs found on pasture (from faeces), contaminated drinking water, feed or surrounding environment. Once they are ingested by the horse, the eggs hatch releasing larvae into the small intestines. They will then migrate to the large intestine and develop into an adult pinworm. Their entire lifecycle takes about 4 to 5 months.

Affected horses are often itchy, trying to rub their tail, bite and lick their hind quarters, which leads to the appearance of bald patches in these areas.

Although pinworm eggs will not appear in routine faecal worm egg counts, the diagnosis can be made either visually when the sticky fluid is deposited or your vet can perform an adhesive test. The eggs will be visible if a transparent piece of adhesive tape is applied over the anus and then examined under the microscope.

To keep these parasites away from your horse please make sure you keep up with your routine worming plan. Avoid using grooming equipment on more than one horse to keep the parasite from spreading from one horse to another.

If you notice your horse is more itchy than usual in its rear end or if you are able to identify the parasite, clean your horse’s perineal area every three days to remove any eggs that may have been laid there. The best way to clean the horse perianal region is to use disposable materials, such as Baby wipes, which can then be carefully disposed of. This will not only prevent the worms from contaminating the environment and stop them from continuing their normal development but this will also relieve the horse from the itchiness and irritation.

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Horses, just like humans, can have heart murmurs. Murmurs can be detected by your vet while he or she examines your horse and listens to its heart with a stethoscope. They are basically abnormal sounds of high velocity or turbulent blood flow that originated from the heart valves or related structures.

Although the idea of a horse having a murmur can be scary for a horse owner, heart murmurs are relatively common findings on horse’s examinations and many healthy horses have murmurs.<

Most of these murmurs are not due to any structural abnormality and often the horse or the pony does not show any signs of heart disease. However, some murmurs indicate more serious problems in a horse’s blood flow and/or heart function. These abnormalities include inadequate functioning of heart valves, large blood vessels or an abnormal connection between different heart chambers.

Common clinical signs of heart disease include a reduced tolerance to exercise, thickening of the limbs and lower neck or chest and enlargement of blood vessels, causing a pulse in their jugular vein that is visible when you look at their neck (‘jugular pulse’).

Most horses are not affected in terms of athletic performance by the fact that they have a heart murmur and studies on the matter have failed to find any evidence that horses with murmurs performed any differently from those without murmurs. If the murmur is due to an abnormality and if this issue progresses, then a horse’s performance can deteriorate as time goes by.<

Sometimes a heart murmur can appear following certain medical conditions. Colic leads to unusual blood flow patterns for example and viral infections can cause changes to the cardiac muscles. In such cases the murmur is temporary.

If your horse has a heart murmur it might be necessary to investigate it further as it could mean your horse has a heart condition and its progression can have an impact in your horse’s performance and general health.

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Are you expecting the arrival of a new foal? In that case this post is for you! Many decisive things happen in the very first few hours of a foal’s life and it is important to keep in mind what is normal, just in case the newborn foal or the mare need any assistance.

The average pregnancy in horses takes approximately 11 months but it can range from 321 and 365 days so in many cases, anxious owners will need to be a little patient.

Once a foal is finally born the first thing to make sure is that it is breathing normally. The less we intervene the better but if you notice the mare does not clean the membrane covering the foal’s muzzle straight away, you should remove it and clear the foal’s nostrils of any mucous that may prevent the foal from breathing properly.

The foal will try to stand and walk as soon as it is born. Foals will usually sit up one or two minutes after birth and stand within two hours. They will also present a suck reflex two to ten minutes after being born.

It is very important to observe the foal suckling the mare within the first hours of birth, as ingesting the mare’s colostrum is essential for the foal’s immune system and general health. Afterwards it is expected for the foal to feed at least every twenty minutes during its first week of life. Feeding at this rhythm foals will usually pass their first droppings and urine during the first day.

Newborn foals should be kept in clean conditions, away from other horses and protected from extreme weather conditions. It will be necessary to treat the foal’s navel with an antiseptic product several times during the first day in order to prevent any infections.

It is also recommended to have both the foal and the mare checked by your vet on the first day to make sure they are doing well, to ensure they are healthy and to thoroughly check the foal for any deformities.

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The best way to improve your horse’s quality of life and general health is to understand its nature and, weather a horse is stabled, living outside or in a combination of both, to provide a suitable environment that will fulfil their needs and promote natural behaviour.

Horses are social animals that enjoy more than anything the freedom to graze, to interact with each other and to be able to quickly escape if they don’t feel safe. In the wild, horses frequently interact with other horses and live in herds, spending most of their time (14-16 hours) wandering over wide areas foraging for food.

Their main concern is to be able to escape any possible predators so they are almost always active and alert. They enjoy wide open spaces because it allows them to clearly see what is going on around them and because it gives them the room they need to quickly run away if they feel threatened, scared of just uncomfortable. This is not only important to escape predators but it is also important for their social interactions, as they can decide to be around their equine companions or to just have a few moments alone.

It is essential for the health of a horse’s digestive system to have a high fibre content diet (such as grass and hay) provided in regular, small amounts. Food intake should be regulated to maintain a horse’s ideal weight, but any selected diet plan must keep this in mind.

Most horses, ponies and donkeys are extremely sociable and it is highly recommended for them to have companions to interact with. Other key elements include appropriate shelter, fresh water, mineral licks, extra feed if necessary and regular health care, which includes vaccinations, a worming plan and regular foot trimming and dental checks.

The size of a stable is also very important for a horse and as a general rule, the bigger the better. It should allow for the horse to turn around, to lie down and even to roll if they want to. Good ventilation is essential to prevent breathing problems. Large stables will not only provide better air circulation but will also reduce stress levels and allow you to accommodate more than one horse, pony or donkey if necessary.

A stable with good visibility, good air flow and natural light can also help reduce stress. Horses will feel more relaxed if they are able to watch, listen and smell things around them and on the outside, as this gives them something to do instead of feeling isolated and bored.

They will also benefit to be placed near their best friend, especially if they can easily see and touch each other, avoiding stress related with separation anxiety.

Stress, anxiety and depression in horses can affect performance, lead to weight loss and contribute to other serious diseases such as colic and laminitis. It can also interfere with the recovery process of an injury or disease.

A horse’s environment is key for its mental well-being and physical health.

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Equine sweet itch is a seasonal skin disease of horses and ponies caused by an allergic reaction to Culicoides midge bites. Affected horses feel extremely itchy, restless and uncomfortable, intensely rubbing and chewing the areas where they were bitten. Over time this can lead to hair loss, crusting, scaling, skin thickening and damage to the skin, which then becomes an open door for secondary infections.

All breeds can be affected and there is evidence that susceptibility to the disease is inherited. The saliva of the midge causes an “over the top”type I hypersensitivity reaction in which sensitised mast cells release histamine, resulting in swelling and intense itching. The more often a horse is bitten by midges, the worse the reaction becomes. The most commonly affected areas are usually the tail head, under the mane and underneath the horses’ abdomen.

The midges are active from March to October but their numbers peak from May to September.

A few changes in your horse’s daily management routine can be very helpful to deal with this problem, as well as using sweet itch rugs in combination with insect repellents, insecticides, oils and greases.

Sweet itch rugs cover more of the horse’s body and it’s important to keep in mind that the mesh size needs to be extremely small because midges are tiny. The best way to protect your horse’s face is to use a horse mask. Midges will often congregate on the moist areas around the horse’s eyes and forehead, and a fine mesh face and ear cover, attached by velcro under the chin is very effective in keeping them away.

Due to their small size it is very hard for midges to bite through layers of oil which means that oils such as citronella oil, garlic oil and tea tree oils can be helpful to provide some protection. There are many types of products that combine repellents, insecticides and oils available. Find one that suits you and your horse best.

If possible increase airflow by using a fan in the stable and use a very fine fly screen over the stable door.

Since midges are most active at dawn and dusk, stable the horse from 4 pm until 8 am in the summer months. Consider moving your horse away from wooded and wet areas to avoid as many moist midge breeding grounds as possible.

If you notice your horse is itching more than usual consult your veterinary surgeon as it will be needed to rule out other possible causes of itching. Your vet can also prescribe medications that can help ease your horse’s symptoms and provide some relief to suffering horses, while additional precautions are taken. Ask your vet for advice.

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Mud fever is a common infection that usually affects the lower limbs of horses that are kept outside in wet weather.

Horses with mud fever show thick scabs with matted hair generally in the heel bulbs and at the back of their pastern. The skin beneath these scabs is usually pink, inflamed and there could be pus as well. If secondary infections manage to settle in the limb will gradually become swollen, painful and it is usually associated with low grade lameness.

This condition is caused by an organism called Dermatophilus congolensis, an actinomycete that is commonly found on the horse’s skin. Normally this organism doesn’t cause any damage but if the skin barrier is damaged for some reason the Dermatophilus will take the opportunity to infect the area.

Mud fever can have several causes such as trauma, mites, ringworm, sarcoids, UV damage and internal diseases such as liver disease but the most common cause for this condition is the prolonged contact of the hair and skin with moisture and mud. The skin becomes gradually softer making it susceptible to infection.

When the same organism causes damage higher up on limbs, the condition is known as ‘Rain Scald’, which can be seen on other areas of your horse including the head, back and rump.

Horses with steep sided heels, a deep groove between their heel bulbs and with thick coats and large feathers are more prone to mud fever. These characteristics contribute to keep the moisture close to the skin, providing a favourable environment for the Dermatophilus to thrive. It has also been suggested that white legs are more susceptible to this problem.

To treat this condition owners must thoroughly wash the affected limb with an antibacterial shampoo to remove the crusts. Some of these can be hard and painful to remove. For this reason the shampoo should be left on for 5 to 10 minutes to soften them up before rinsing it off with warm water. It is very important to thoroughly dry the hair with a clean towel or a cool hair drier afterwards. Then the hair must be clipped around the lesion and an antibiotic ointment should be applied.

The idea is to clean the affected areas, to keep them dry and exposed to the air to promote healing while keeping the organism away. Your horse’s legs should be washed daily until mud fever is gone and please do not pick off the dry scabs. This can lead to the appearance of open wounds and they will become an open gate for infection.

If you notice your horse’s limb is becoming swollen please contact your vet as a course of antibiotics may possibly be required.

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Spring is on the way and a rise in the number of atypical myopathy cases has sparked the conversation among vets and pet owners about sycamore poisoning.

Atypical myopathy is a potentially fatal disease that affects a horse’s muscles. The disease is caused by the ingestion of seeds and leaves of the European sycamore (Acer pseudoplatanus) andis seen in the UK and in Northern Europe.

This plant contains a toxin called hypoglycin A which interferes with the production of energy within a horse’s muscle cells, resulting in muscle damage. Although the toxin is present in both seeds and leaves, seeds seem to contain higher amounts of the dangerous toxin.

This disease is more common in the autumn as outbreaks occur when large numbers of seeds are falling. However, there have been small outbreaks during spring as well. Horses from all ages and sizes can be affected but young horses seem to be more susceptible to the effects of the toxin if they eat the seeds or the leaves of this plant.

Affected horses can become weak, lethargic and reluctant to move. Common signs also include pain, stiffness, muscle tremors, breathing difficulties and red or brown urine. They may be unable to lift their heads or even remain standing. Many horses die from this condition.

The chances of a positive outcome and of making a full recovery greatly increase if the horse is treated quickly. If you notice any of the previously mentioned signs on your horse, do not hesitate to contact the vet.

Horses that suffer from sycamore poisoning are usually kept on sparse pastures, near trees from the genus Acer. To prevent this from happening owners can be proactive and take a few precautions:

• Check the fields carefully for Sycamore leaves and seeds and fence off areas where the seeds have fallen. If possible remove any seeds that might have scattered from nearby trees.
• Turn out horses for short periods (ideally less than 6 hours) and manage the density of horses to make sure that there is enough for all of them.
• Provide extra forage (hay or haylage) in the field to reduce the risk of horses eating the seeds.

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The British winter can be very hard for animals that are kept outside. Horses and ponies that are native to Britain have evolved to withstand our cold and harsh weather, therefore if these animals are given the chance to adjust to their surroundings they will handle the cold better than what we would expect.

Despite these horse’s natural hardiness it is always a good idea to go through a few tips and reminders on how to help your horse cope with the cold season. It is also important to remember that breeds that are originally from warm countries are not naturally prepared to handle our winters and additional support becomes even more important for these horses.

All equines grow a winter coat, an extra layer of hair that helps them keep their body heat. This hair is coated with waterproof oils, which protects them from the rain and the snow. Excessive grooming can remove some of these oils from their haircoat, reducing its waterproof properties.

Diet

The balance between your horse’s energy intake and energy output is essential to deal with winter’s low temperatures. It’s very important to provide plenty of hay or haylage so your horse has lots of fibres to digest. This will compensate for the reduced amount of grass that is being ingested and will help them fight the cold. The fermentation process in their gut produces considerable amounts of heat that literally warms them up from the inside out.

If you decide to do any changes in the amount of hard feed being offered to your horse please remember to introduce them gradually, as sudden diet changes are more likely to cause colic.

It’s not uncommon for their water to freeze during winter’s cold nights which means that they will be left without a water source for several hours.  Please check their water in the morning and make sure they always have drinkable water throughout the day. Unlike what most people might think, a horse can easily drink more water during winter since it will be consuming a lot more dry food and less grass.

Winter rugs

Winter rugs are a great way to keep your horse warm and there is a wide variety of them to choose from. Please make sure you take their rugs at least once a day to check underneath it and to give your horse’s skin the chance to breath. If hair or humidity starts to build up under the rug, not only it will become itchy and uncomfortable for the horse but it can also lead to skin problems.

Shelter

Having a safe shelter to protect your horse from the wind is always recommended. A shelter, closed on three sides, with an area of clean bedding provides a safe and comfortable spot for the horse to lie down. It is also very useful during summer.

Providing an appropriate diet, a good quality winter rug and a field shelter can help your horse go through winter with a lot more comfort. Please remember to check on your horse at least twice a day and keep an eye on its body condition to make sure he or she is doing well.

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